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| Scott R., Washington
Thank you for personalizing this experience and following up with me. That means a lot. We're looking forward to receiving the chairs and other items. I'll stay in touch concerning follow up orders to furnish our cabin. More Testimonials > |
Log Cabin Rustics Archive Page
Monday, June 30, 2008
When you start to think about building a log home, a question presents itself; whether to build from ground up or to use a factory-made log home kit. There are many reasons to use the factory kit, even if you have been looking forward to whipping out the chainsaw.
The factory-made log home kit is the right choice for three reasons. First off, most people don't own the right type and size of trees on their property to build a log cabin. It takes a lot of wooded acreage to complete a log home, which requires at least 100 logs just to build a regular-sized cabin. It can also be hard to find disease-free specimens that are required, and the preferable type of tree for building log homes may be simply not available in your area, such as cedar, Douglas Fir, Yellow Pine, popular, or spruce. If these woods are not native to your area, you will most likely have to have quality timbers shipped in. The second reason to avoid using trees on your property to build your log home is that before the logs can be used, they have to be dried, and few log home owners have this capability. When a living tree is first chopped down, it is still swollen with sap and other fluids. In order to ensure that the logs won't shrink over time, the logs must be stripped of their bark to expose the sapwood beneath, and dry out for several months before the construction process takes place. The job of completing the "aging" process successfully is not easy, and few novice home builders have the time or patience required. The final reason is that most people lack the knowledge to prepare the logs properly. Each log needs to be checked for cracks, then planed flat on two opposing surfaces to insure a tight seal between the timbers. Even more difficult, the corner joints must be individually cut to provide a perfect fit. Even if they had plenty of cured logs available, some people lack the physical ability and/or the knowledge Jo prepare the timbers properly. Each log must, for example, be inspected for "checks" or cracks, and then planed flat on two opposing surfaces to insure a tight seal between the timbers. In addition (and this is especially difficult), the corner joints must be individually cut to provide a perfect fit. So, unless you've been building log homes for many years, its best to leave the lumber preparation to the more experienced. There are many good log home builders that have been in the business for a long time, and satisfaction is guaranteed. These companies are already equipped to prepare construction-grade logs, cure green timber, and will go a long ways to accommodate their customers. Some builders will even pre-assemble the log home before they ship it, just to make sure all the parts fit properly! Even though a log home factory kit doesn't sound very rustic or outdoorsy, it is the right choice for new log home builders. by: Log Cabin Rustics  
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Did you get tired of sitting indoors this last winter, doing nothing
because of the freezing weather? Cabin Fever, a book written by Rachel Carley, celebrates a culture of enjoying the outdoors while celebrating the beauty of nature in a comfortable yet rustic indoor setting. She describes how the log cabin is one of America's cherished icons, a dream getaway for those who are tired of the stress & hustle that city life has to offer, and backs up her claims by filling the book with beautiful pictures. Cabin Fever spends a significant amount of time studying the different architectural elements that make American-style log cabins unique. Hand-peeled logs, cowhide sofas, and river-rock fireplaces are used to bring both a feeling of history and the great outdoors inside. Some readers may be put off by the fact that much of the book focuses on the historical design of the "Great Lodges," but those great monuments of early American architecture are the quintessential example of log home building, and somebody who is looking to learn more about the art and lore should take a few days off work and visit one. Cabin Fever is the perfect book to inspire the reader to get excited about everything to do with Log Furniture and Homes. by: Log Cabin Rustics
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
When you first start to put together a piece of log furniture, you need to learn about the mortise and the tenon. The tenon is the joint that holds the furniture together, and the mortise is the hole it should fit snugly in.
Mortise & Tenon joints have been used for centuries because of their strength and simplicity. They are at their strongest when the 2 parts are joined together at a 90-degree angle, but it is not necessary. Basically, a mortise and tenon joint is when one log is inserted into a hole in another one, then held in place with a fastener. Today, glue is the common choice to secure the tenon, but in the past, woodworkers would fashion the tenons so that they protruded through the mortised stock, to then be secured by a wedge or dowel. The tenon is a rectangular pin cut from the end of the log. While they could be cut with a drawknife, woodworkers often use a band saw or a tenoning jig on a table saw to safely form the tenon. When you first give it a try, be careful not to remove too much material, as a thin tenon will create a weaker joint. It is a good idea to cut the mortise first, then the tenon. Leave the tenon a little larger than you think might be needed, then try fitting it, then take off just a little bit. It is better for the tenon to be a hard fit than find it does not hold the two logs together. A long time ago, mortises were cut using a chisel, but now it is more common for woodworkers to use a dedicated mortise, which employs a drill bit encased inside a four-sided chisel. To cut a mortise using a drill bit, first mark the area to be cut, then sing the bit into the wood, taking small bits at a time. Set the depth meter to encompass the whole length of the tenon, but no deeper than that. When you finish, use a chisel to clean up any rough spots that remain. Once you have finished creating the mortise and tenon, try fitting the tenon into the mortise. It should fit snugly, but not too tight. Once all the joints have been successfully tested and are ready for assembly, apply glue to both the tenon and the mortise. Coat all surfaces evenly using a small brush. by: Log Cabin Rustics
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
There are many tools that are used to build log furniture, but the drawknife is the one you’ll be spending the most time using. It is used to remove the bark off the logs, but is sharp enough to shape the wood. It can also be used to peel logs and make tenons. A tenon is a rectangular shape cut out of a piece of wood before it is used to insert into a mortise. Using a drawknife does take a lot of effort, and be sure to watch out for the “planer glaze,” which when the pores of the wood close as a result of the cutting action. This shouldn’t be a problem unless you plan to stain your furniture and keep it outside, then the stain will not be able to properly penetrate the wood.
If you decide to sand the logs instead of using a drawknife, be sure to invest in a sander that will do the job. But you will be missing out on something important. The drawknife is the king of woodworking tools, and using it gives the builder a chance to get a closer feel of how the wood works and a little exercise. by: Log Cabin Rustics
Monday, June 23, 2008
This is the second part of a series full of information on how to build your own log furniture for beginners.
There are many different types of wood you can use to build your log furniture. The wood must be dry; trees that are already dead but still standing are easily accessible. If you can’t find any dead wood, green wood will work; you just have to wait for it to dry. Once you get logs that will work well, it is time to become acquainted with the drawknife, which is the tool preferred by many for removing bark. Be sure to use long strokes, but if your wood has a lot of knots, it can be very taxing on the arms. If you have green wood, the bark can be peeled off in a process known as “sap peeling” while it is still green. This method of peeling the bark works very good, and if you have access to a kiln, the results are even better. Drying your wood with a Kiln produces less cracking then air drying, but it may be expensive. Air drying takes about a year to get the moisture content down to 16%, and then it is considered workable. One thing to watch out for is wood rot. If you got your wood from a dead tree that was still standing, it can be hard to discover the rot until you’re drilling holes and sanding. The ecologically friendly alternative is firekilled wood. A live tree doesn’t have to be killed, and they are easier to work with. Firekilled logs may be hard to find though, depending on where you live, but it can bring a special sense of satisfaction to get outdoors and find that special piece of wood for your log furniture. by: Log Cabin Rustics
Saturday, June 21, 2008
A couple days ago we posted about a book that informed on how to build
a piece of log furniture, an activity that may take time but gives back a great deal of pleasure and a sense of pride. We decided to start a small series of posts on how to build log furniture that will be helpful for beginning builders who have yet to buy the book. The first people to come to America may have appreciated the natural beauty of log furniture, but a big reason they were carpenters is out of necessity. Today, we are not forced to be carpenters, but there are still many reasons to build log furniture. It helps us to feel at one with nature. It allows a person to put his or her own personal flavor on the logs, choosing whether they prefer it to be as rustic as possible, or a sleeker more finished look. We are going to write about the rustic style today, preferred by most log furniture builders, maybe because it seems more outdoorsy. To build furniture with a natural look, special tools are required to hand peel and sand it. Fortunately, rustic furniture can be built with simple tools. A hatchet can be used to form the tenons. A drawknife can be used to peel back the word, plus it leaves rustic scars behind on the wood resembles the hard times the pioneers went through. But remember to be careful when using the drawknife, it can cut away many of the unique features nature has left in the wood. For the ambitious woodworker, the rustic beauty of the logs can be amplified by leaving a small piece of bark on the log. If you are luck enough to find a small limb positioned just right, it could be a great place to hang your cowboy hat. The advantage to building this type of furniture is that you can make it at a lower cost and still know you're getting a quality piece made from real wood. These are becoming harder and harder to find. Maybe you don't live in a log home, but if you want a real sense of pride and achievement, building your own log furniture can provide a special attachment with nature that is hard to find anywhere else. If building log furniture sounds like too much of a project, consider that some of our log beds are like "kits", and by the time you put them together and/or finish them, you can still have the pleasure of having a hand in your very own log bed. by: Log Cabin Rustics
Friday, June 20, 2008
We thought our visitors would be interested if we blogged about issues they might face while living the outdoor lifestyle. This post isn’t related to log furniture, but we hope it will interest people who appreciate the great outdoors.
Skinning a deer is a skill that every new hunter needs to learn. While it is advisable to head out with a friend to help with the process when you first start hunting, it never hurts to review the process to avoid any mistakes when you are outdoors by yourself. The process of removing the skin from the deer is quite simple. The important thing to remember is to follow the built-in lines of the body of the deer and work from that standpoint. Follow this outline because protective membranes make the process of pealing the skin away from the meat a lot easier. It may sound like a difficult process, but anybody can learn to skin a deer. The secret is to use your hands correctly and use your body weight to your advantage. After you figure it out, it shouldn’t take more than ten to fifteen minutes to skin a deer. First hang the deer from a tree or another high vantage point. It doesn’t matter whether you hang it from the head or the heels. This makes it easier to apply your body weight and creates a greater leverage point for skinning the deer. It also helps keep the deer clean; there are less bugs and ants up in the tree. Make sure you skin the deer within an hour or two after its death. A sharp knife makes your job an easy one. If the deer is hung by the legs, locate the large tendon that is attaching the lower leg segment to the rest of the deer’s leg. Cut a hole between the tendon and the bone. Next, find the lump that is formed by the deer’s double-jointed bone. Once you have located the lump, cut the lower leg at the lower end of the two parts of the double joint, then cut the tendons right here and snap the deer’s leg over your own, using your body’s leverage to break it. After breaking the deer’s legs, cut more holes around the tendon areas. There should be whole area that is flanked by the tendon and the bone of the lower leg. Severe and snap the front legs as well. After making the initial incisions, begin the process of striping the deer of its skin. Use your finger tips and thumbs to get inside the skin near the lower leg incisions and begin to peel the skin off. Pulling off the deer's skin should feel similar to removing a tight pair of blue jeans off. It may be difficult, but the savory meat revealed beneath the skin should be an ample reward Believe it or not, when you are finished, the whole process only took about ten or fifteen minutes. Everybody who loves to eat deer meat but never got the opportunity to see where it came from should learn how to do it. by: Log Cabin Rustics
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Red cedar furniture owners have it easy; finishing is optional them, because the wood is resistant to decay and insect pests. In contrast, white cedar furniture is most protected when it is finished, even though the two trees are closely related.
What makes white cedar logs different from red cedar wood? The answer is that although the white cedar wood has the same cell properties, it lacks the natural acidic tannins fluid that helps preserve red cedar. When left outside, white cedar will turn to a handsome silvery color. Inside, it will darken slightly. There are many different types of finish available to choose from. One option is wood sealer, a liquid finish that blocks the pores of the wood by quickly changing into a solid state after it has been applied. This blocks the grain from becoming raised, but still allows it to fade to a silvery-gray color. Paint is not recommended for cedar wood, unless the piece will be in an area with no sunlight. If cedar furniture is painted and put in a sunny area, over time the sun will cause the moisture stuck in its fibers to evaporate. This will result in cracking and peeling, leaving a mess that needs to be sanded and finished again. The preferable treatment to keep your white cedar furniture both long lasting and looking good is a stain. There are many different types of full color and transparent stains on the market. Some log furniture owners re-apply the stain every 3-5 years, although this probably isn’t necessary unless the furniture is outside. If your goal is a covering that will not trap moisture and cause peeling, stain is a great solution for your white cedar furniture. The light color of white cedar will look good with a variety of different stain options. Many of our Amish suppliers do apply a clear lacquer to red cedar furniture, which helps preserve its redness, especially when exposed to the sunlight. We have never seen any other color of finish applied to red cedar, and, although not needed to preserve the wood itself, a clear lacquer finish really does preserve and highlight the beauty of red cedar wood. Labels: finishing, log furniture, red cedar, white cedar by: Log Cabin Rustics
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
 Our sincere condolences to the Morris family in Pueblo, Colorado, whose log furniture factory just recently burned to the ground. Fortunately, all 11 of their workers were able to escape the blaze. However, their loss in terms of inventory, downtime and logs readied to manufacture more log furniture must be nearly incalculable. You can read more about the blaze in the Pueblo Chieftain. by: Log Cabin Rustics
 One of the things new log furniture purchasers should expect to see in their furniture over time is “checking,” a natural process also known as “cracking.” Because furniture builders use the whole tree instead of discarding any pieces with imperfections, they should expect to their log furniture to develop a more rustic feel as it ages. Although some people may be bothered by this, it is actually a natural process. Before the logs are used for furniture, they are dried to remove any moisture remaining. This causes the logs to shrink in length and width. As tension develops in the wood due to shrinkage, it causes the log to split. These cracks are visible in most pieces of log furniture. Checking might worry some furniture owners, but the experienced know that it adds to the beauty and character to the wood. by: Log Cabin Rustics
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Have you ever wanted to build your own log furniture? Here is a great book that offers a wealth of useful advice on the topic.
For a complete woodworking novice, this manual on building your own log furniture is very valuable. The authors, Dan Swesey and Les Smith, have written a no nonsense book with detailed information that walks you through all the stages of log furniture construction. It starts with an introduction to a craft that is not at all inappropriate for those who have neither woodworking experience nor a workshop full of expensive power tools. The plans are reasonably clear and concise, and the tools required are simple and fairly inexpensive. While the authors are thorough in instructing the reader, they carefully remind the reader to use their imaginations when building log furniture, to give it their own personal flavor. This wonderful book provides a very thorough education in log furniture building, and should be recommended to anybody who loves the look and feel of a rustic bed or sofa, but doesn’t want to pay the high prices often seen in retail stores. by: Log Cabin Rustics
Monday, June 16, 2008
What color of log furniture would look best with your rustic décor? Most log furniture buyers don’t spend too much time thinking about this. They may be searching for a woodsy tan to complement their log cabin, but there are more exciting options.
Red Cedar furniture is an excellent choice to make your living room more colorful. There are many other reasons to choose furniture made from the Red Cedar tree, the most notable being how resistant the wood is to outdoor weather. Red cedar is even a popular option for dog houses, since it is able to withstand extreme weather conditions. Although you may not have outdoor plans for your furniture, the ruggedness will prove useful if there is an accident with a spilled drink or tipped bowl of soup. But bad weather isn’t the only threat Red Cedar furniture is prepared to face, it is also comes with a naturally resistant oil that helps it fight insect pests. Other cedars lack this oil, making them more vulnerable to fleas, ticks, and termites. Not surprisingly, doghouses made out of Red Cedar are famous for their longevity. If the rugged magic of Red Cedar can work to keep a doghouse safe, it can also protect your log furniture, both inside and outside. Labels: log cabins, log furniture, red cedar, rustic by: Log Cabin Rustics
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